Well... scary 3 AM walk to Termini station wasn't so scary. The loudest sound was from my bag wheels. I probably woke up some homeless people. As it turned out, Termini station was closed. A taxi driver helped me to figure out where the terravision stop was. There I met another traveler(as it turned out to be lithuanian). Seeing me her eyes brightened with joy - she was smoking and was feeling cold. As we switched from English to Lithuanian, she told she was waiting there from 11pm. The fact that Termini station was closed for night she learned only when she was kicked out at 12pm. I was glad I didn't choose the same option as she did. Then she went to McDonalds (she thanked god for being kicked out of the station to the right side of it) and spent there few lovely hours tightly sitting with all kind of fauna - I guess at that time of night there was all kinds of it. After midnight she drank 3 cups of coffee, but was afraid to go to the loo - fearing to lose her seat. At 3AM she was kicked out of McDonalds as well. Since then she was waiting near terravision bus stop. As it turns out TerraCafe opens only at 4 AM. When I met her she was smoking cigarette after cigarette though on other occasions rarely did this. She was scared and more than she should be, but after waiting for 5 hours I guess a mind starts playing tricks with you.
First shock when I learned about -12 degrees in Vilnius - returning from paradise with more than +12 to a frozen hell. Priority queue in Rome Ciampino airport means you get to wait for plane outside early in the morning - it seemed more like a punishment than a privilege. It was less cold in the airplane - but still could feel the chills. But compared to how air flight attendants felt with their high heel shoes knowing they will have to walk on the ice.
And for the final attraction - I had to scrub the ice of my car, that just had to be celebrated with a cup of hot cocoa from favorite gasoline brand station.
Before leaving for Rome I turned all the appliances and heat pump off - third cup of tea and a second pair of socks are my best friends now.
P.S. and internet connection speed is way better there than in Rome.
2014-12-27
2014-12-26
End of roaming in Rome (part 7)
Last day in Rome. Feels like I've been there too long. Not that I've seen everything, but not everything that I see excites me anymore.
Don't trust the italians too much and don't trust the italian weather forecast - but it turns out to be a good thing(the last one) - a perfectly cloudless blue sky, sun and some wind. Because of the last one, it felt a little bit colder, but if you stay in the sun - it's ok.
Being rewarded with perfect weather my options for today were limitless. I recalled not seeing some churches and squares, also decided to give Spanish stairs another shot - went there in the morning - it was less crowded on the stairs - probably because they were wet after night. And today didn't have the calmness of yesterday - streets were busy again with cars and people. I don't recall all the churches I had to visit and visited, but some were visited twice.
I wandered around and it was about lunch time. I turned to trip advisor for help, went looking for panini place, but ended up in a little trattoria - just about at the right time - still empty, but people started gathering very quickly. I had ravioli with ricotta and spinach and tomato sauce and a pana cota for dessert - totally delicious - I was full of energy to move forward.
Castel del San Angel - a big castle and former pop's residence and a place for hiding. It was enough for me to look at it from the outside. From there I just walked slowly on the banks of Tevere enjoying the sun and taking pictures for few hours.
Just before sunset I managed to jump few metros for Pincio Hill panorama view, then for some pizza at Zizzi Pizza place (if you ever be there, it's worth a try) and late present shopping.
Day is over, need to get some rest before the scary night walk to Termini station.
Don't trust the italians too much and don't trust the italian weather forecast - but it turns out to be a good thing(the last one) - a perfectly cloudless blue sky, sun and some wind. Because of the last one, it felt a little bit colder, but if you stay in the sun - it's ok.
Being rewarded with perfect weather my options for today were limitless. I recalled not seeing some churches and squares, also decided to give Spanish stairs another shot - went there in the morning - it was less crowded on the stairs - probably because they were wet after night. And today didn't have the calmness of yesterday - streets were busy again with cars and people. I don't recall all the churches I had to visit and visited, but some were visited twice.
I wandered around and it was about lunch time. I turned to trip advisor for help, went looking for panini place, but ended up in a little trattoria - just about at the right time - still empty, but people started gathering very quickly. I had ravioli with ricotta and spinach and tomato sauce and a pana cota for dessert - totally delicious - I was full of energy to move forward.
Castel del San Angel - a big castle and former pop's residence and a place for hiding. It was enough for me to look at it from the outside. From there I just walked slowly on the banks of Tevere enjoying the sun and taking pictures for few hours.
Just before sunset I managed to jump few metros for Pincio Hill panorama view, then for some pizza at Zizzi Pizza place (if you ever be there, it's worth a try) and late present shopping.
Day is over, need to get some rest before the scary night walk to Termini station.
2014-12-25
A promise of a rain has come true (roaming in Rome part 6)
I guess showing dissatisfaction matters - I got my breakfast delivered prior 8 with a warm "Merry Christmas" in an italian guy's smile. Looking forward for tomorrow - the hotel has the last chance to make it right or to fail.
It's Christmas and as it is usual in Italy - almost everything is closed. Usually are open only those that are not christians or believe in a quick buck more than in a God(my personal observation). That's why the city is still full with "selfie selfie" or fake brand bags sellers. Especially at the vicinity of Vatican when crowds are coming back from the mass. It's just not cool experience to be surrounded by 3 such guys with no way out.
As I was informed in advance about everything being closed, I decided to stay outdoors - visit few parks - Gianicolo hill and Villa Borghese.
Ascending little by little the first one - you are rewarded with the views and panoramas of Rome that are better and better after each other. And you don't have to fight with other tourists for a place to take a picture. And not only this place, the whole city is a lot calmer on Christmas day - it even feels safe to cross the street. And today has been rewarded with fewer clouds and some decent sunny spots in the sky.
Exploring the little streets and banks of Tevere I walked in the direction of Villa Borghese. I was once near it, but didn't take time to explore it - so, it was a return of my promise. But before that I was starting feeling hungry - and finding a place to eat seemed liked a problem today - my determination was to stay away from places with "special tourist menu", other were just closed. But somehow near the piazza del Popolo in a narrow street I found a bread, ham and cheese place, which also made sandwiches in front of your eyes and weighted everything on the scale. I ended up with a huge sandwich of flat bread, parma ham and real mozzarella - ate it sitting at the bench of piazza del popollo and watching gipsy guys scamming other tourists with roses. And yes, it starts to affect you how you feel about this city - it's beautiful, it's old, full of history, but also full of trash, and people trying to make a big buck out of every tourist. Selling selfie-pods is now on the wave, I wonder what is the next their top-selling item? Of course, they will have a demand for these still for a long time - at least until mobile phones won't have a levitation feature and a remote control by default. And all these things makes it harder to believe in open-heartiness and warmth of italians. You have constantly to question yourself - are they being honest or am I a victim of another scam.
So, my next stop was Villa Borghese - not far away, all I had to do is just ascend the hill and once more enjoy the panorama of Rome - but there, differently than in Gianicollo - all the good view spots were already taken. Having the pictures recorded to my mind, I turned to the woods - the old park with tall trees, little fountains, ponds and other beautifully designed lanscapes. It's hard to express the experience there, you just have to walk yourself and feel it. For as long as you wish. I didn't take all the paths and feeling the coming clouds of rain, decided to walk towards center via Via Venetto - a famous district from La Dolce Vita. Here I felt the first drops of so long ago promissed rain - it wasn't even worth to look for umbrella. Heading forward some streets started to feel familiar - I need a lot less looking at my map. Though probably I still looked like a tourist with my camera bag. I remembered that somewhere in vicinity there is a church I skipped yesterday because it was closed and was not to open for another half an hour - San Pietro in Vincolli - not as huge as others, but gives an impression of being light and clear with amazing frescas on its ceilings.
Few promissed drops of rain were turning into darker clouds - my inner feeling told me to get home - and I was right, though I couldn't dodge few drops either.
Tomorrow will be the last day in Rome - it's hard to think of something you haven't seen but want to when you have seen almost everything.
It's Christmas and as it is usual in Italy - almost everything is closed. Usually are open only those that are not christians or believe in a quick buck more than in a God(my personal observation). That's why the city is still full with "selfie selfie" or fake brand bags sellers. Especially at the vicinity of Vatican when crowds are coming back from the mass. It's just not cool experience to be surrounded by 3 such guys with no way out.
As I was informed in advance about everything being closed, I decided to stay outdoors - visit few parks - Gianicolo hill and Villa Borghese.
Ascending little by little the first one - you are rewarded with the views and panoramas of Rome that are better and better after each other. And you don't have to fight with other tourists for a place to take a picture. And not only this place, the whole city is a lot calmer on Christmas day - it even feels safe to cross the street. And today has been rewarded with fewer clouds and some decent sunny spots in the sky.
Exploring the little streets and banks of Tevere I walked in the direction of Villa Borghese. I was once near it, but didn't take time to explore it - so, it was a return of my promise. But before that I was starting feeling hungry - and finding a place to eat seemed liked a problem today - my determination was to stay away from places with "special tourist menu", other were just closed. But somehow near the piazza del Popolo in a narrow street I found a bread, ham and cheese place, which also made sandwiches in front of your eyes and weighted everything on the scale. I ended up with a huge sandwich of flat bread, parma ham and real mozzarella - ate it sitting at the bench of piazza del popollo and watching gipsy guys scamming other tourists with roses. And yes, it starts to affect you how you feel about this city - it's beautiful, it's old, full of history, but also full of trash, and people trying to make a big buck out of every tourist. Selling selfie-pods is now on the wave, I wonder what is the next their top-selling item? Of course, they will have a demand for these still for a long time - at least until mobile phones won't have a levitation feature and a remote control by default. And all these things makes it harder to believe in open-heartiness and warmth of italians. You have constantly to question yourself - are they being honest or am I a victim of another scam.
So, my next stop was Villa Borghese - not far away, all I had to do is just ascend the hill and once more enjoy the panorama of Rome - but there, differently than in Gianicollo - all the good view spots were already taken. Having the pictures recorded to my mind, I turned to the woods - the old park with tall trees, little fountains, ponds and other beautifully designed lanscapes. It's hard to express the experience there, you just have to walk yourself and feel it. For as long as you wish. I didn't take all the paths and feeling the coming clouds of rain, decided to walk towards center via Via Venetto - a famous district from La Dolce Vita. Here I felt the first drops of so long ago promissed rain - it wasn't even worth to look for umbrella. Heading forward some streets started to feel familiar - I need a lot less looking at my map. Though probably I still looked like a tourist with my camera bag. I remembered that somewhere in vicinity there is a church I skipped yesterday because it was closed and was not to open for another half an hour - San Pietro in Vincolli - not as huge as others, but gives an impression of being light and clear with amazing frescas on its ceilings.
Few promissed drops of rain were turning into darker clouds - my inner feeling told me to get home - and I was right, though I couldn't dodge few drops either.
Tomorrow will be the last day in Rome - it's hard to think of something you haven't seen but want to when you have seen almost everything.
2014-12-24
Oranges of Rome (part 5)
Regarding that breakfast ... it never arrived to my room. I descended to hotel reception and was informed "I don't know if anybody has told you, but we need you to move into the other room". That was the turning point - I informed them that I want my breakfast always at 8, not way too later or never(like today). I agreed to switching rooms (though it still was a single person room) hoping it will be better in some ways. Actually it was - had a mirror in a bathroom and a shower curtain. Though it was almost of the same size, the bed was twice as smaller (I can live with that). It had some serious disadvantages - none of the 2 power sockets could fit in my notebook power adapter. But I didn't know about all the upgrades until I came back from the city - so, when I left for it, I was feeling a little bit down.
My goal of the day was to find the garden of oranges. And it is a perfect time of the year - oranges are still on trees, but almost ripe and the air around them smells pleasantly. But about this experience later...
Armed with a banana, Milka chocolate chip cookies box, 2 duplo bars and a bottle of water I headed out to meet another adventure. It turned out to be a church work.
San Giovani in Lateranus was my first stop, though unintentionally. Saint Peter's Basilica was impressive, but this church was not worse. Especially I liked the little monastery garden inside with decorations not similar to anything. 2 metro stops and I exited at Vitorio Emanuele station and walked straight to the Santa Maria Magiore - dark and gloomy, at least from facade side - my first impression on this church. It was dark inside too. Beautiful, but not as beautiful as in San Giovani in Lateranus. Enough of localities.
My goal was on Aventine hill and it was a long road ahead. A little bit lost in the streets up on a hill I finally arrived to the Parco Savellio also known as the garden of oranges. Legend says it started from one tree many years ago. It has one of nicest views to the panorama of the Rome and is not so overcrowded as other panorama places (or might be it depends on the time of the year and weather). After taking few pictures, sharing a cookie with pigeons and resting a bit, I continued to my next goal which was not that faraway - keyhole view to Saint Peter's Basilica. I was lucky it was not crowded, I could image it being a very favorite attraction for tourists. It's hard to take a picture of the view, so the best one you can take - is in your memory.
It was time to descend the hill - la boca della verita - the mouth of truth - after seeing a way too long line at it, I changed my mind of risking my hand bitten off and just rested in front of fountain of Tritoni.
It was time to go meet my new room and prepare something for Christmas Eve supper - as it turned out sardinis(very close to lithuanian herring dishes) with white bread are just fine, and of course a bag of clementines - a national dish for Christmas in Lithuania.
My goal of the day was to find the garden of oranges. And it is a perfect time of the year - oranges are still on trees, but almost ripe and the air around them smells pleasantly. But about this experience later...
Armed with a banana, Milka chocolate chip cookies box, 2 duplo bars and a bottle of water I headed out to meet another adventure. It turned out to be a church work.
San Giovani in Lateranus was my first stop, though unintentionally. Saint Peter's Basilica was impressive, but this church was not worse. Especially I liked the little monastery garden inside with decorations not similar to anything. 2 metro stops and I exited at Vitorio Emanuele station and walked straight to the Santa Maria Magiore - dark and gloomy, at least from facade side - my first impression on this church. It was dark inside too. Beautiful, but not as beautiful as in San Giovani in Lateranus. Enough of localities.
My goal was on Aventine hill and it was a long road ahead. A little bit lost in the streets up on a hill I finally arrived to the Parco Savellio also known as the garden of oranges. Legend says it started from one tree many years ago. It has one of nicest views to the panorama of the Rome and is not so overcrowded as other panorama places (or might be it depends on the time of the year and weather). After taking few pictures, sharing a cookie with pigeons and resting a bit, I continued to my next goal which was not that faraway - keyhole view to Saint Peter's Basilica. I was lucky it was not crowded, I could image it being a very favorite attraction for tourists. It's hard to take a picture of the view, so the best one you can take - is in your memory.
It was time to descend the hill - la boca della verita - the mouth of truth - after seeing a way too long line at it, I changed my mind of risking my hand bitten off and just rested in front of fountain of Tritoni.
It was time to go meet my new room and prepare something for Christmas Eve supper - as it turned out sardinis(very close to lithuanian herring dishes) with white bread are just fine, and of course a bag of clementines - a national dish for Christmas in Lithuania.
Waiting for breakfast in Rome (part 4)
Usual morning in Rome - waiting for my breakfast though it's already past 8. That doesn't make me angry anymore - there's nowhere to hurry. In weather forecast - today is a rainy day, no sunshine at all - weather has been bad yesterday too, but I didn't see it raining - maybe it will stay a promise only.
I came home(hotel) later than usual and went straight to bed. Felt exhausted after lots of ... walking(who could have guessed that?) and a late ballet performance at the Opera House of Rome. I went to see a Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker. I liked the venue, the music, costumes and some parts in ballet, but some parts I didn't get - probably I had a different version of nutcracker's story in my head. Also, at some moments there was too hot inside and hard to breath - probably it should, there were 1600 people breathing same air.
Sometimes it's so crowded in line A of Rome metro, that even if you manage to get in, it's hard to get out on the right stop. That's what happened to me yesterday's morning. But one can have that kind of adventures once in a while. I had few goals for the day on my mind, but wasn't in a hurry.
Buying a ticket to ballet and hoping to get a seat for the same day. Accomplished. Then near Republica stop a church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martyri caught my eye - built in a place of former Diocleziano baths. A really beautiful masterpiece designed by Michelangelo.
Other goal for my day was to visit Capitolium museums - I should have been ashamed not doing it sooner. On my way from Circus Maximus metro stop I passed through some beautiful views - Teatro di Marcello, then the staircase view to the Capitolium. Though the museum contains many historical treasures, the one I enjoyed most - was the view to the Roman Forum. By that time I realized I was starving, not wanting to repeat my former mistakes by buying food from food carts near sightseeing locations (because it's overpriced and not worth the price you pay, and probably not as delicious as it could be). With the help of tripadvisor application, I had a goal - La Prosciutteria - a cosy sandwich, meat and cheese platter place. But having goal is one thing, and reaching it - is another. It didn't seem very far away, about a kilometer or so. But when you are not local, the distance multiplies few times. It doesn't matter how many more kilometers I had to cover - the taste was worth it - simple, but fresh and delicious. The sandwich was so big, I managed to eat only half of it(other half I kept for my supper) and it costed only 5 euros. Everything from ham to cheese was cut in front of my eyes. With a little bit extra energy - I decided to visit Pantheon(oh my, I didn't choose the shortest path, on the opposite), but found the gardens of Quirinalis on my way and rested a bit in a shade of exotic plants. Pantheon is really a great piece of art and engineering, and it doesn't have lines you have to wait in. Unfortunately, my camera doesn't cover such a wide angle to take a picture of it all.
And the rest of the story of the day you already know. Having written this I'm still waiting for my breakfast.
I came home(hotel) later than usual and went straight to bed. Felt exhausted after lots of ... walking(who could have guessed that?) and a late ballet performance at the Opera House of Rome. I went to see a Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker. I liked the venue, the music, costumes and some parts in ballet, but some parts I didn't get - probably I had a different version of nutcracker's story in my head. Also, at some moments there was too hot inside and hard to breath - probably it should, there were 1600 people breathing same air.
Sometimes it's so crowded in line A of Rome metro, that even if you manage to get in, it's hard to get out on the right stop. That's what happened to me yesterday's morning. But one can have that kind of adventures once in a while. I had few goals for the day on my mind, but wasn't in a hurry.
Buying a ticket to ballet and hoping to get a seat for the same day. Accomplished. Then near Republica stop a church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e Martyri caught my eye - built in a place of former Diocleziano baths. A really beautiful masterpiece designed by Michelangelo.
Other goal for my day was to visit Capitolium museums - I should have been ashamed not doing it sooner. On my way from Circus Maximus metro stop I passed through some beautiful views - Teatro di Marcello, then the staircase view to the Capitolium. Though the museum contains many historical treasures, the one I enjoyed most - was the view to the Roman Forum. By that time I realized I was starving, not wanting to repeat my former mistakes by buying food from food carts near sightseeing locations (because it's overpriced and not worth the price you pay, and probably not as delicious as it could be). With the help of tripadvisor application, I had a goal - La Prosciutteria - a cosy sandwich, meat and cheese platter place. But having goal is one thing, and reaching it - is another. It didn't seem very far away, about a kilometer or so. But when you are not local, the distance multiplies few times. It doesn't matter how many more kilometers I had to cover - the taste was worth it - simple, but fresh and delicious. The sandwich was so big, I managed to eat only half of it(other half I kept for my supper) and it costed only 5 euros. Everything from ham to cheese was cut in front of my eyes. With a little bit extra energy - I decided to visit Pantheon(oh my, I didn't choose the shortest path, on the opposite), but found the gardens of Quirinalis on my way and rested a bit in a shade of exotic plants. Pantheon is really a great piece of art and engineering, and it doesn't have lines you have to wait in. Unfortunately, my camera doesn't cover such a wide angle to take a picture of it all.
And the rest of the story of the day you already know. Having written this I'm still waiting for my breakfast.
2014-12-22
Roaming in Rome - Part 3
Today has been a very interesting day. So interesting that I don't know where to start from.
Before leaving the hotel I tried to minimize the weight I have to carry - ditching scarf, block note, pens, Italian conversations book, even inner fillings of camera bag. Besides that - I was determined to to the minimum of walking, only when needed.
My determination failed when I didn't fit into a second metro train at Manzoni station - walking to Colosseum was faster than waiting. And besides that I love the view to Colosseum from the Viale della Domus Aurea - be it morning or evening.
My plan for morning was to take Jep Gabardeli's route - the one he's taking in the morning on the banks of Tevere. Thought that taking a metro to Pyramid's station would be just fine - but it appears I had to do some walking towards river. Tried to find a place that sells tea or cocoa - ended up at a place where barmaid doesn't speak English (that's not unexpected) - but a helpful italian man (or should I say roman?) helped me out by translating. It appears he used to play basketball when he was younger(young) and knows Sabonis. I got my tea served in a glass bottle of juice (for taking out).
Finally, I reached Tevere and the bridge at the Piaza di Porta Portese, descended down and enjoyed the calm walk on the almost empty banks of Tevere. That lasted until I reached a bridge to Tevere Island. There I had most delicious hot chocolate ever for 2 euros. Headed to island, then walked out through the pedestrian bridge. There I saw a man selling gorilla pods. Asked how much it was costing - 10 euros. I paid for mine 30 euros over internet:/ Then turned to jewish district and for Campo Dei Fiori. Do you still remember I was determined to do the minimum of walking? I had forgotten this. I only tried to slow down my pace, hopefully I did, usually I'm a fast walker. My goal for today was to get to Vatican about 2pm, get into museums and spend the rest of the day there.
At the bridge near Castel de Augustino I was greated by an Italian man(an old one). We exchanged few phrases and it turned out he was working as a guide for tourist groups in Vatican, he suggested to show things around - and I thought why not. That's where my lesson on Italian culture and history started - in half English, half Italian.
Waiting in a line for Saint Peter's cathedral I got my sun tan - probably will be seeing (and feeling) the results very soon. After the quick(and free) excursion and cathedral, I went for Vatican museums, grabbing a canoli di Napoli on my way (now I understand why my friend likes them a lot). Somehow managed to avoid the scam and overpaying 30 euros for skipping the lines to museums(a ticket to museum is 16 euro only). In Vatican museums everything seems Sistine Chapel centered. Even if you go just for it - you have to go through everything else. And everything else is not that bad compared to the Sistine Chappel. It's beautiful, but I didn't feel anything special about it. Maybe few hundred of other tourists standing in the same room and guards constantly reminding that you have to keep moving had to do something with that. Anyway, to my taste everything in Vatican museums was too decorated, too shiny and too colorful. But if you look at the historical value - of course, it's impressive. Experiencing this in totally different environment - with fewer people, in almost silence and no hurry, I believe, it could leave a better impression. The thing I liked most there was the garden with a fountain at the dusk.
After so much footwork I felt really hungry - it was time to try some local food at the restaurant - not a usual take away snack. I decided to do some classics for the first time - spaghetti a la carbonara and tiramisu. I'm not sure it's that how they should taste - but I liked it - a bacon flavor in a spaghetti sauce and a frozen top and warm base of tiramisu. A bartender at the restaurant tried to ask me out - but I turned it down. I understand that Italians are friendly, but hey I'm Lithuanian - I'm not used to so much friendliness. Or I have to learn pay less attention to their attention.
Anyway, it was not the last adventure of the day. I got shown two beautiful panoramas (and not crowded by tourists) of the city - one to the Foro Romano and the other from the piazalle de Cafarelli to street of Teatro di Marcello.
That's all for my determination to do a minimum amount of walking - there is tiredness and some pain in my feet, but it feels very far away, like in different dimension.
Before leaving the hotel I tried to minimize the weight I have to carry - ditching scarf, block note, pens, Italian conversations book, even inner fillings of camera bag. Besides that - I was determined to to the minimum of walking, only when needed.
My determination failed when I didn't fit into a second metro train at Manzoni station - walking to Colosseum was faster than waiting. And besides that I love the view to Colosseum from the Viale della Domus Aurea - be it morning or evening.
My plan for morning was to take Jep Gabardeli's route - the one he's taking in the morning on the banks of Tevere. Thought that taking a metro to Pyramid's station would be just fine - but it appears I had to do some walking towards river. Tried to find a place that sells tea or cocoa - ended up at a place where barmaid doesn't speak English (that's not unexpected) - but a helpful italian man (or should I say roman?) helped me out by translating. It appears he used to play basketball when he was younger(young) and knows Sabonis. I got my tea served in a glass bottle of juice (for taking out).
Finally, I reached Tevere and the bridge at the Piaza di Porta Portese, descended down and enjoyed the calm walk on the almost empty banks of Tevere. That lasted until I reached a bridge to Tevere Island. There I had most delicious hot chocolate ever for 2 euros. Headed to island, then walked out through the pedestrian bridge. There I saw a man selling gorilla pods. Asked how much it was costing - 10 euros. I paid for mine 30 euros over internet:/ Then turned to jewish district and for Campo Dei Fiori. Do you still remember I was determined to do the minimum of walking? I had forgotten this. I only tried to slow down my pace, hopefully I did, usually I'm a fast walker. My goal for today was to get to Vatican about 2pm, get into museums and spend the rest of the day there.
At the bridge near Castel de Augustino I was greated by an Italian man(an old one). We exchanged few phrases and it turned out he was working as a guide for tourist groups in Vatican, he suggested to show things around - and I thought why not. That's where my lesson on Italian culture and history started - in half English, half Italian.
Waiting in a line for Saint Peter's cathedral I got my sun tan - probably will be seeing (and feeling) the results very soon. After the quick(and free) excursion and cathedral, I went for Vatican museums, grabbing a canoli di Napoli on my way (now I understand why my friend likes them a lot). Somehow managed to avoid the scam and overpaying 30 euros for skipping the lines to museums(a ticket to museum is 16 euro only). In Vatican museums everything seems Sistine Chapel centered. Even if you go just for it - you have to go through everything else. And everything else is not that bad compared to the Sistine Chappel. It's beautiful, but I didn't feel anything special about it. Maybe few hundred of other tourists standing in the same room and guards constantly reminding that you have to keep moving had to do something with that. Anyway, to my taste everything in Vatican museums was too decorated, too shiny and too colorful. But if you look at the historical value - of course, it's impressive. Experiencing this in totally different environment - with fewer people, in almost silence and no hurry, I believe, it could leave a better impression. The thing I liked most there was the garden with a fountain at the dusk.
After so much footwork I felt really hungry - it was time to try some local food at the restaurant - not a usual take away snack. I decided to do some classics for the first time - spaghetti a la carbonara and tiramisu. I'm not sure it's that how they should taste - but I liked it - a bacon flavor in a spaghetti sauce and a frozen top and warm base of tiramisu. A bartender at the restaurant tried to ask me out - but I turned it down. I understand that Italians are friendly, but hey I'm Lithuanian - I'm not used to so much friendliness. Or I have to learn pay less attention to their attention.
Anyway, it was not the last adventure of the day. I got shown two beautiful panoramas (and not crowded by tourists) of the city - one to the Foro Romano and the other from the piazalle de Cafarelli to street of Teatro di Marcello.
That's all for my determination to do a minimum amount of walking - there is tiredness and some pain in my feet, but it feels very far away, like in different dimension.
2014-12-21
Rome Day 0.5 (Roaming in Rome part 1)
In some cities - buildings and architectural style make you feel very small and unimportant. In Rome - even trees make you feel so. I'm not sure how they are called, but they look like pines, but a little bit different than those in Lithuania. They remind me of gigantic bonsai trees with their form, but only you are the bonsai human.
First impressions - even the trash has the right to be on the street. Most of the places really need to take part in "Darom" initiative (for those that don't know what it is - a day in a year when everybody caring about nature and environment goes out and cleans some places up). On the other hand, it makes you feel in a less perfect place (it's not so bad when you're feeling tiny and unimportant...).
After setting the first step of the plane I have been having this weird feeling - apparently my last meal was before 7 am and now it was 2 pm. And yet I had to wait for a bus and then go to Termini station. First thing I did at Termini looked for cafe, it wasn't hard to find. Ordered tea and a sandwich, but got a different one - ended up eating only mozzarella and tomatoes, bread was too hard for my teeth. Twenty minutes on foot and I arrived to my hotel. Girl at the desk didn't speak English at all, but kindly gave me key and showed my room at the fourth floor. Well, room is the kind of you'll try to spend less time in it - very small, dark, only one power socket, no shower curtain or door (but it seems like it used to be there) and no mirror in the bathroom(though I found one in the wardrobe). There is still a TV and I will have my breakfast delivered to the room. Other girl came after 10 minutes and had more English words in her luggage - was very kind and friendly, even explained what to see in Rome, even I didn't asked it.
Then I bought some water, chocolate and did some random walking to the Colosseum(which of course was already not working) and with the flow of the crowd towards Trevi fountain(which apparently is under construction now). I was still hungry - found a pizza place and bought a piece with potatoes. Potatoes were delicious - the base layer just a little bit better than the bread in the Termini cafe, because it was softer. Now I had energy to walk to Santa Maria in Trastevere and watch a fire show performed with Prodigy's "I'm a fire starter". After that I decided it was time head to hotel - feet were already reminding of themselves and it was too dark to wonder around in an unknown city. But still I never felt unsafe. Easier said than done - when you look at the map, it doesn't seem that faraway, but there are some shortcuts you can't take - they are with walls and locks and also very dark places.
After just walking in very unexpected places I was getting closer to my goal - hotel. On my way I bought some clementines for supper with some leaves, I hope they were grown there. I saw some lemon trees with lots of fruits on it - if you got a garden in Rome, your garden ain't garden if it doesn't have lemon tree. Joking of course, clementine trees work just fine.
And did I mention that it's pleasantly warm there?
First impressions - even the trash has the right to be on the street. Most of the places really need to take part in "Darom" initiative (for those that don't know what it is - a day in a year when everybody caring about nature and environment goes out and cleans some places up). On the other hand, it makes you feel in a less perfect place (it's not so bad when you're feeling tiny and unimportant...).
After setting the first step of the plane I have been having this weird feeling - apparently my last meal was before 7 am and now it was 2 pm. And yet I had to wait for a bus and then go to Termini station. First thing I did at Termini looked for cafe, it wasn't hard to find. Ordered tea and a sandwich, but got a different one - ended up eating only mozzarella and tomatoes, bread was too hard for my teeth. Twenty minutes on foot and I arrived to my hotel. Girl at the desk didn't speak English at all, but kindly gave me key and showed my room at the fourth floor. Well, room is the kind of you'll try to spend less time in it - very small, dark, only one power socket, no shower curtain or door (but it seems like it used to be there) and no mirror in the bathroom(though I found one in the wardrobe). There is still a TV and I will have my breakfast delivered to the room. Other girl came after 10 minutes and had more English words in her luggage - was very kind and friendly, even explained what to see in Rome, even I didn't asked it.
Then I bought some water, chocolate and did some random walking to the Colosseum(which of course was already not working) and with the flow of the crowd towards Trevi fountain(which apparently is under construction now). I was still hungry - found a pizza place and bought a piece with potatoes. Potatoes were delicious - the base layer just a little bit better than the bread in the Termini cafe, because it was softer. Now I had energy to walk to Santa Maria in Trastevere and watch a fire show performed with Prodigy's "I'm a fire starter". After that I decided it was time head to hotel - feet were already reminding of themselves and it was too dark to wonder around in an unknown city. But still I never felt unsafe. Easier said than done - when you look at the map, it doesn't seem that faraway, but there are some shortcuts you can't take - they are with walls and locks and also very dark places.
After just walking in very unexpected places I was getting closer to my goal - hotel. On my way I bought some clementines for supper with some leaves, I hope they were grown there. I saw some lemon trees with lots of fruits on it - if you got a garden in Rome, your garden ain't garden if it doesn't have lemon tree. Joking of course, clementine trees work just fine.
And did I mention that it's pleasantly warm there?
Life and death of my feet in Rome (Roaming in Rome part 2)
This day started with spotting a clementine tree in the yard my hotel room is overlooking. I did got my breakfast delivered to room, but only after I reminded them after more than a half hour. Interesting sense of punctuality or just bad memory? But even that could not ruin my mood - the sun was shining outside and I was going to Colosseum.
Today I decided to save my feet and headed right to the metro station to buy a ticket valid for couple of days - that way I could hop on and off the metro trains, but I killed my feet in Foro Romano and Palatino, and before that walked around in Colosseum. And there were no metro trains inside. Smart people wear sport shoes, others have to endure the pain (of their stupidity or lack of space in their hand luggage). There is always and option to sit down - everywhere - there are plenty of stones, large pieces of marbles - especially nice to sit when the sun is shinning - and today there was no single cloud in the sky throughout the day. It felt like Indian summer and I almost regretted not leaving my coat at the hotel. I also regretted taking my camera bag with me - but on the other hand I invented 5 other ways to carry it (and feel less pain in the back).
Today sandwiches (or should I call them paninis) where a lot better - the bread was soft and the whole meal tasted very good (especially when one is hungry).
There were a lot more clementine and orange trees in Farnese garden, and some tourists decided to harvest those by shaking the trees. Despite of their behavior the air around smelled really good - the usual smell for Christmas in Lithuania - clementines.
One thing I omitted yesterday - being a pedestrian and crossing a street in Rome is really dangerous, even if you have the green signal - don't trust the cards and vespas - it's like being the least privileged participant in transportation. On the other hand, there are so many tourists - if every car and motorcycle would mind them - they would never move. But today I kind of forgot this - it appears I crossed a lot less streets, most of them above my head when I was going with metro.
The end of the day started at the Spanish stairs - I was astonished by the amount of tourists and didn't like that view at all - it would be a lot nicer if I was the only one sitting on those stairs - is there a time in year when that can happen? I needed to fix my mood with some cacao or hot chocolate (from McDonalds) and grabbed some hot chestnuts for the Pincio Hill sunset. When planning my trip I downloaded an application called TouristEye (which isn't bad at all except for the name) - there was a suggestion to watch sun down at Pincio Hill. I didn't get to the exact location (or the coordinates in the map were bad), but I did see a nice sunset, took some beautiful photos (to my taste) and talked to a stranger about weather and some italian movie filmed in Tallinn about Siberia. I also stepped few steps into a Borghese Park - but there I'm returning in one of the next days - crazy place - lots of bicycle riders and statues of Pitagora and Archimedes (the ones I knew).
During these 1.5 days spent in Rome I have broaden my knowledge about professions people can do - sell umbrella's, scarfs, mounts for cameras and phones or just levitate in the air by holding with one hand to a pole - it does seem real, but that guy really does have strong arms. Where is the demand there is a supply, but from most what I've seen - even tourists try to avoid those street everything-sellers. Oh, and even birds do have a job in Rome - they pose for tourists, with tourists and that way earn their bread. I got my picture with bird too.
I'm finishing my evening with classical music on TV - I wish to go to real concert there, but nothing from their repertoire seems to attract me.
Today I decided to save my feet and headed right to the metro station to buy a ticket valid for couple of days - that way I could hop on and off the metro trains, but I killed my feet in Foro Romano and Palatino, and before that walked around in Colosseum. And there were no metro trains inside. Smart people wear sport shoes, others have to endure the pain (of their stupidity or lack of space in their hand luggage). There is always and option to sit down - everywhere - there are plenty of stones, large pieces of marbles - especially nice to sit when the sun is shinning - and today there was no single cloud in the sky throughout the day. It felt like Indian summer and I almost regretted not leaving my coat at the hotel. I also regretted taking my camera bag with me - but on the other hand I invented 5 other ways to carry it (and feel less pain in the back).
Today sandwiches (or should I call them paninis) where a lot better - the bread was soft and the whole meal tasted very good (especially when one is hungry).
There were a lot more clementine and orange trees in Farnese garden, and some tourists decided to harvest those by shaking the trees. Despite of their behavior the air around smelled really good - the usual smell for Christmas in Lithuania - clementines.
One thing I omitted yesterday - being a pedestrian and crossing a street in Rome is really dangerous, even if you have the green signal - don't trust the cards and vespas - it's like being the least privileged participant in transportation. On the other hand, there are so many tourists - if every car and motorcycle would mind them - they would never move. But today I kind of forgot this - it appears I crossed a lot less streets, most of them above my head when I was going with metro.
The end of the day started at the Spanish stairs - I was astonished by the amount of tourists and didn't like that view at all - it would be a lot nicer if I was the only one sitting on those stairs - is there a time in year when that can happen? I needed to fix my mood with some cacao or hot chocolate (from McDonalds) and grabbed some hot chestnuts for the Pincio Hill sunset. When planning my trip I downloaded an application called TouristEye (which isn't bad at all except for the name) - there was a suggestion to watch sun down at Pincio Hill. I didn't get to the exact location (or the coordinates in the map were bad), but I did see a nice sunset, took some beautiful photos (to my taste) and talked to a stranger about weather and some italian movie filmed in Tallinn about Siberia. I also stepped few steps into a Borghese Park - but there I'm returning in one of the next days - crazy place - lots of bicycle riders and statues of Pitagora and Archimedes (the ones I knew).
During these 1.5 days spent in Rome I have broaden my knowledge about professions people can do - sell umbrella's, scarfs, mounts for cameras and phones or just levitate in the air by holding with one hand to a pole - it does seem real, but that guy really does have strong arms. Where is the demand there is a supply, but from most what I've seen - even tourists try to avoid those street everything-sellers. Oh, and even birds do have a job in Rome - they pose for tourists, with tourists and that way earn their bread. I got my picture with bird too.
I'm finishing my evening with classical music on TV - I wish to go to real concert there, but nothing from their repertoire seems to attract me.
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